Shaving 101: Switching From Cartridges to a Safety Razor
Most people who move from a cartridge razor to a double edge find the first few shaves harder than they expected, then wonder why they waited. The technique is different, not difficult. Here is what commonly goes wrong at the start, and how to avoid it.
Start with equipment that works
You need three things: a double edge razor, a soap or cream worth lathering, and a brush that suits it. A brush that will not hold water or that feels harsh on the face makes lathering a chore rather than the best part of the shave, so it is worth choosing carefully.
Prepare properly
Warm water does most of the work. Shave after a shower, or hold a warm wet towel against the beard for a minute first. Warm, wet hair cuts more easily than dry hair, which usually means less drag on the blade and a more comfortable pass. If you are short of time, a warm soak at the sink is enough.
Leaving the lather on the face for thirty seconds or so before the first pass helps as well. Much longer than that and it starts to dry out and stops doing its job.
Use less pressure than feels natural
This is a common cause of a bad first shave. Many double edge razors are heavier than a cartridge, though not all are, and they are built so that the weight of the razor does the cutting rather than your hand. Cartridge razors trained you to press. Rest the head on the skin, find the angle where the blade engages, and let the razor travel.
Shave with the grain on the first pass, in the direction the hair grows. Rinse the head after every few strokes so lather and cut hair do not clog the gap. Once you are comfortable, you can add a second pass across the grain, and eventually against it, re-lathering each time.
Learn your blades
Blades vary far more than most newcomers expect, and a blade that suits one person’s beard can be uncomfortable for another. You will usually feel a worn blade before you see it: it pulls rather than cuts. The efficient way to find yours is a blade sampler rather than committing to a hundred of a brand you have never tried. Once you know what you like, buying in bulk is where a double edge razor becomes cheap to run.
Finish the shave properly
Rinse with cool water, pat dry rather than rubbing, and put something on afterwards if you like. A balm or a splash is a matter of preference: balms are richer and suit dry skin, splashes are lighter and evaporate quickly.
Rinse the brush thoroughly, shake it out gently and leave it to dry in open air; a stand is a convenient way to store it. Rinse and dry the razor, and stand it up rather than leaving it in a puddle on the sink.