HOW TO USE A SAFETY RAZOR FOR A CLOSE SHAVE
STEP 1: PREPARE YOUR SKIN FOR SHAVING
The best time to shave is after you’ve washed or exfoliated your skin, preferably after your shower. Another option is to apply a hot towel to your beard & skin for a minute or two. Steam softens hair making it easier to shave.
STEP 2: APPLICATION OF SHAVE CREAM OR SOAP
Using a high quality pre-shave oil and shave cream or soap produces the glide that helps the razor move cleanly across the skin. Use a good boar, badger or synthetic shave brush to lift the facial hair and more evenly disperse the lather.
STEP 3: LET THE RAZOR DO THE WORK – USE SHORT LIGHT STROKES WITH A FRESH BLADE
Using a fresh blade, start shaving the sides of your face first, going in the direction of your hair growth. Hold your safety razor firmly and use short strokes. Don’t add pressure or push the blade into your skin (think about your face as a balloon…tread lightly with slow, short mindful strokes). A solidly made safety razor will have sufficient weight and should glide across your skin. There is no single correct angle, because the angle at which the edge meets your skin is set mostly by the razor’s head rather than by you. Find the angle your razor wants: rest the top cap flat against your skin so the blade is not yet cutting, then lower the handle slowly away from your face until the blade just begins to engage. That is the shallowest working angle for that razor, and it is where many razors are most comfortable. Keep it steady through the stroke by moving your whole hand rather than turning your wrist.
STEP 4: NECK AREA– GO WITH THE GRAIN
The neck area can be challenging for guys since hair grows in different directions around the Adam’s apple. Shave with the grain for your first pass for less irritation. Some people like to re-lather and shave again against the grain for a second pass, but if you have sensitive skin, skip this step.
STEP 5: LIP AND CHIN AREA
Shave these tough spots last so the shave cream or soap has more time to soften your beard. You can add water to rehydrate before shaving these areas. Use your free hand to stretch your skin, creating a flat area for your blade to shave.
STEP 6: RINSE WITH COLD WATER
Follow your shave with a splash of cold water and rinse your razor and brush well.
STEP 7: APPLY AFTERSHAVE BALM OR SPLASH
Finish with an aftershave balm or splash. A balm is richer and stays on the skin; a splash is lighter and evaporates. Both are a matter of preference. An alum block is a traditional finish after a close shave, drawn across damp skin and rinsed off.
**NOTE: When shaving legs or bikini areas, all of the same principles apply, however, when shaving around the ankles, shins and knees, tread lightly and try to flatten the area by straightening your leg and using light short strokes around the boniest areas. Be sure to prep the skin well and use a slick shave oil or a soap or cream for the best razor glide.